Friday, March 31, 2017

A Couple of Gems

Click here for more photos of Naxos and Taormina

Giardini Naxos & Taormina

These two towns are early Greek settlements. Both sit in full, spectacular view of Mt. Etna; Giardini Naxos low along the harbor with it's amazing beaches, and Taormina high on the adjacent hill with it's spectacular views of the Mediterranean Sea, Mt. Etna and the Calabrian coast of the Italian mainland.

Taormina up in the mountains
Both towns also include Greek ruins to explore including a theater with a beautiful view. Naxos was the first Greek settlement on Sicily's east coast in 725 BC, while Taormina is an upscale resort with high end shopping and dining and boutique hotels. 
















Caltagirone

Click here for more photos of Caltagirone

We discovered this gem when Diane researched where to stop to eat on our drive back home to Cassibile from Agrigento. It's a big town noted for it's very fine ceramics, especially the Moorish heads that you've probably seen. The town's name has Arabic origins meaning Castle of Jars, so the pottery work there goes back to antiquity.

When we arrived at La Piazzetta, the restaurant in Caltagirone, it was 30 minutes before closing between lunch and dinner. The restaurant was filled but after a brief wait we were seated. Menus were distributed and the owner came over and chatted for a few minutes. He understood what we needed so he collects the unlooked upon menus and says "I'll take care of you" (or something to that effect in heavily accented Italian). He did. The food was fantastic and we dined as well as we ever had.



Staircase of Santa Maria del Monte. Each step with a different ceramic tile

Diane wants me to tell the story of how we got lost trying to drive out of Caltagirone. It involved driving around narrow streets in circles and meeting (and trying to pass) an ice cream truck. Twice. Ask me when we next meet...
Diane at the bottom of the steps of SMdeM. I drove down that road and made that left turn down the hill.
It wasn't easy!


Sunday, March 26, 2017

A Weekend In Agrigento

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Temple of Concordia, one of the best preserved sites
of the ancient world

Agrigento was far enough away (about a 3.5 hour trip) that we went for the weekend and spent two nights in a local B&B. The B&B was terrific and our host Dorio, was wonderful.

He drew us maps, made dinner reservations at local restaurants, including one high on a hill overlooking the Valley of the Temples, and served the greatest breakfast with all local ingredients mostly from his farm; cheeses, eggs, honey, olive oil, home baked cakes. It was great! And all for just the 4 of us.

Our view out the bedroom window
Agrigento is another gem in Sicily because it contains the vast, high, ruins of the ancient Greek city of Akragas. The ruins are called the Valley of the Temples and they contain well preserved temples, an extraordinary garden and a magnificent museum. The site sits high on a plateau overlooking the Mediterranean Sea and it's a beautiful place. Between the temples and the objects in the museum one looks back over 2500 years of history. It's quite an experience!

Temple of Juno. One can see fire damage from the Siege of Akgras by he Carthiginians in 406 BC
It goes without saying that Agrigento, sitting on the south coast of Sicily, was later conquered by Carthiginians, Romans, Normans, Spanish, and, most recently, by the allies in WW2. And it's a UNESCO Word Heritage Site.


Scala dei Turchi

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This is a beautiful beach near Agrigento noted for it's white cliffs. here are some photos:




WW2 fortifications


See you soon!

Tuesday, March 21, 2017

Mt Etna


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It's the biggest volcano in Europe and stands at just under 11,000 ft. It's also a very active volcano, especially so during our visit to Sicily.
Mt Etna dominates views on this very large island. Though it lies in the northeast corner, it is visible for many miles across Sicily. We judge the quality of the weather by how visible the mountain is. We're about 80 miles away (I thought we were closer) but between the mountain and it's constant stream of smoke and gas we are always aware of its presence. 

We took the 2.5 hour drive from our place up the mountain and rode the gondola to around 7,500 feet where we walked around the snow a bit and took photos. We declined the ride up to the crater in the large snow cats, but the next week a BBC crew and other tourists took that trip and almost didn't make it back as the mountain took the opportunity to have an explosion of rocks and boulders. They sustained injuries but were luck to make it out alive!




Here are some photos of our Mt Etna trip:

This was taken from our flight into Sicily. Etna was active!



The way to the top! 
The view down from the gondola

Till next time... (taken from 80 miles away!)




The Ancients

<CLICK HERE FOR MORE PHOTOS OF ANCIENT SITES>

It turns out that Sicily, like much of the Mediterranean area is filled with many ancient sites to visit. I mean, really old sites unlike anything we can find back home.

And these these sites, often from the 6th and 7th century BC are all over the place! They were great places to live, so civilization after civilization built over and over upon the same site. Often it's very difficult to understand what we're looking at so we have to go back home and do research on what we just saw. Documentation, btw, is hard to come by.

The neat thing is that there are so many places and since it's quiet here at this time of year, we have the sites to ourselves. Still, it's difficult to make sense of it all. Documentation is sparse and it there are translations, they're not always effective. 

Here's some of what we've seen:
This is a nearby site for us. Small and quiet, it was a nice 30 minute diversion. As the name says, it's an old Roman Villa, built upon by a 17th century farmhouse! In the 70's it was discovered that an amazing mosaic tile floor from the 3rd century was well preserved below the farmhouse. It is one of the finest examples of ancient Roman mosaic anywhere. Very nice.






Syracuse (Siracusa)

The city of Syracuse deserves it's own post because there is so much to see here. It's not a big city, but the ancients were here. And they built! There is an archeological park, Neapolis, where a number of great sites are. 

Archimedes, the Greek mathematician, was born here and is buried here (turns out the Greeks weren't just from Greece!). There is a large (the largest?) Greek theater (Teatro Greco) here. It was built in 470 BC for a capacity of 15,000. And there is also a neat Roman Amphitheater built in the 3rd century AD. This was a busy place for thousands of years.

Teatro Greco

Roman Amphitheater


More photos! 

Cava D'Ispica

On the road from Ispica to Monica there is a deep cut into the earth exposing the limestone rock lining the cliffs. These canyons are frequent occurrences here; we have a deep fissure right behind our house. The result is caves built into the cliff sides. Many caves occur naturally, but people have dug in and created homes in them for thousands of years. This site extends for many miles and housed communities into the 20th century! It's amazing that people could live in these cliffs. Take a look!
The caves are multi stories! This site was a church

The caves were occupied from the Neolithic
through the 1950's!
Greek writing on the walls assigned seats in the Gymnasium

A small section of the Necropolis where thousands of burials
took place.

Ortigia

Connected by bridge to Siracusa is the ancient part of the city, on the island of Ortigia. It's a fantastic place and we find ourselves visiting a couple of time each week because it's close and there is so much to explore. It needs it's own post, but it has a couple of ancient sites worth noting. 

Of course, the city was founded by the Greeks and you'll find the remains of the Temple of Apollo right in the center of town. Not everyone has an ancient Greek Temple in their town. Pretty cool. 

Walk to the Piazza Duomo for a breathtaking view of a space surrounded by great old structures and churches built upon Greek temples. There is so much here to explore! One church contains a famous Caravaggio painting "burial of Santa Lucia". St Lucy lived in Siracusa and was apparently martyred on the spot where the church now sits.

Across the piazza is the Duomo, where St Lucy's bones are held. The architecture is fascinating as the Greek temple is incorporated into the church.
Inside the Duomo with Greek columns exposed


Ruins next to and beneath the Doumo
Oh... and there is the Fonte Aretusa, which is featured in Greek mythology and where papyrus has been grown for centuries. One of the few places papyrus exists outside of Egypt.

Our Drives


Sometimes we drive to explore nearby towns and discover some gems. A few miles from us is the small town of Palazzolo Acreidi. Surprise, it's a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Here we discovered Europe's longest medieval balcony and, ho-hum, yet another ancient Greek theater (there's one in Taormina and Naxos too. And that's just the nearby ones!). Sicily is packed with history at every turn.  But there's more! Next up: We visit Mt Etna.
Europe's longest medieval balcony (they say...)

Balcony close up

The more intimate Palazzolo theater




Sunday, March 12, 2017

A First Few Days In Sicily

<HERE'S A LINK TO MORE PHOTOS!>


We're staying in a beautiful, modernist, spare, steel, glass, and cement home in rural south-east Sicily. We're on the edge of the plateau that silently stands a couple miles inland, looking over the Mediterranean Sea in the distance, the city of Siracusa (Syracuse to us) hugging the coast with the ancient city of Ortigia dangling off its foot and into the sea. Around the bend of the hill and 40 or so miles to the north, Mt Etna stands alone topped with snow, belching a continuous  hot fog from deep within coloring the horizon to the east and south and letting us know that, well, ya never know.

Mt Etna from our neighboorhood
This area has a natural beauty and an old story. The Phoenicians settled in the western part, followed by the Greeks here in the east. They built port cities and expanded trade hundreds of years BC. They left their temples and theaters and the Romans built over them, then the Vandals, the Byzantians, the Spanish, the French and on and on...

Our pool and view

The house

from the inside out

Coming up the drive

It's old, beautiful, rugged, and funky. Cooler and dirtier than southern Spain the Sicilians haven't quite mastered how to make the most of the gift of Mediterranean beaches. The water is pristine and mild, but beaches are hard to come by and not well maintained.
The local beach 
One of many WWII pillboxes



But they know how to eat! Dining anywhere involves tablecloths, linen napkins, multiple courses served by professional wait staff and the food is unsurpassed! It's a bit overwhelming, frankly. One learns to order less and less. And share.

The Germans left many cement bunkers; on the beaches, in the fields and on the hills. One can easily imagine the British and American landing craft that came ashore here those many years ago.

And cows (steers really)...there are cows all around us. Mostly they remain unseen but within earshot as their bells provide a musical soundtrack to the awesome natural beauty. But sometimes...
Sicilian traffic jam...

Next time: The Things We've Seen!