So Many Churches...

Every town one visits in Sicily has churches, almost always more than one and sometimes, like in Caltagirone, dozens. They can be across the piazza from each other or down the block, but they're always old and very beautiful.

We often visited the churches in the towns we visited, though I know we missed way more than we visited. There were so many, I can't even begin to name them all. Nevertheless, here are some of the beautiful churches from Sicily...

Noto

Nearby Noto was built on the side of a hill. The main drag was level cutting along the hillside making for nice walking until you got to the churches and had to climb the many stairs (pretty usual in Sicily). A couple of the smaller churches were up or down the perpendicular streets where one was sometimes allowed to do the extra climbing to the bell tower.

Ispica

Shortly before our trip began, Ted learned that his grandfather was from Ispica. And as fate would have it, Ispica was a 30 minute drive from our house! So, out we went. What a gem! A lively, clean city with at least 4 magnificent churches. Along the way, we met a caretaker from one of the churches who eagerly gave us a private tour of his church. He spoke no english, but that never mattered and we had a wonderful time. 

We mad a friend who was so happy to show off his church

Modica

Modica is a large town in the southern most region of Sicily. It's famous for it's chocolate and it's the home of a wonderful cathedral. The Cathedral of San Giorgio is located up the hill from the main drag. Since the city center lies in a steep valley, the short walk to the cathedral becomes a hike up 250 steps! Once there, one sees magnificent art works and the famous sundial inlaid in the floor in front of the altar. The sundial marks the spot where the sun shines through a window at noon on each day of the year. 

But that's not all! Modica has another cathedral (and 98 other churches!); the Cathedral of San Pietro. Still lot's of steps to climb along with the 12 apostles to keep you company.

Ortigia (Ortygia)

The island of Ortigia is the ancient section of Siracusa and it became a wonderful place for us to visit as it was only a few minutes drive from our Sicilian home. The Duomo di Siracusa, located in the wordy Palazzo della Sovrintendenza ai Beni Culturali della Provincia di Siracusa is a must see. Built on top of the ancient Greek Temple of Athena, the Duomo has original Greek columns as well as Byzantine artifacts.

Nearby is the Church of Santa Lucia, holding the crypt of Saint Lucia, patron saint of Siracusa. A valuable Caravaggio painting, The Burial of Santa Lucia, hangs behind the altar.

Palazzolo

Another nearby town was Palazzolo Acreide. We spent a lovely afternoon touring this quiet town with it's Greek and Roman sights, interesting architecture, and, of course, churches.

We met Franco here and he proudly brought us on a walking tour of the medieval section of town. Since he was the keeper at the biggest church in town, he made sure to open it for us. Just another beautiful Sicilian town...

Scicli

Scicli is a hidden gem. It's a UNESCO World Heritage site because of it's Baroque architecture but it's off the beaten path and not the usual tourist stop. All the more reason to visit, I say.

Here is where Ted and I got our famous Italian haircuts making us local sensations (at least in our own minds). This town is absolutely beautiful; clean and well cared for. Very upscale from the rest of Sicily. And filled with visitors, though they seemed to be Sicilian visitors. 

The town is nestled deep into a remote river valley and it's quite picturesque. It had a road so steep and narrow that we saw people pull up and 

pick up the "driver" waiting at the bottom who proceeded to drive them up the hill. Valet parking taken to a new level, so to speak. Take a look at some of their churches:

Baroque interior. Notice the large diorama on the left. It's a large room filled with figures depicting the birth of Jesus

Part of the diorama

Caltagirone

Famous for ceramics, the city of Caltagirone is bursting with churches including, of course, a cathedral. The church of Santa Maria del Monte sits at the summit of a famous 142 ceramic step staircase uniting the old and new parts of the city.

A Couple of Gems

Click here for more photos of Naxos and Taormina

Giardini Naxos & Taormina

These two towns are early Greek settlements. Both sit in full, spectacular view of Mt. Etna; Giardini Naxos low along the harbor with it's amazing beaches, and Taormina high on the adjacent hill with it's spectacular views of the Mediterranean Sea, Mt. Etna and the Calabrian coast of the Italian mainland.

Taormina up in the mountains

Both towns also include Greek ruins to explore including a theater with a beautiful view. Naxos was the first Greek settlement on Sicily's east coast in 725 BC, while Taormina is an upscale resort with high end shopping and dining and boutique hotels. 

Caltagirone

Click here for more photos of Caltagirone

We discovered this gem when Diane researched where to stop to eat on our drive back home to Cassibile from Agrigento. It's a big town noted for it's very fine ceramics, especially the Moorish heads that you've probably seen. The town's name has Arabic origins meaning Castle of Jars, so the pottery work there goes back to antiquity.

When we arrived at La Piazzetta, the restaurant in Caltagirone, it was 30 minutes before closing between lunch and dinner. The restaurant was filled but after a brief wait we were seated. Menus were distributed and the owner came over and chatted for a few minutes. He understood what we needed so he collects the unlooked upon menus and says "I'll take care of you" (or something to that effect in heavily accented Italian). He did. The food was fantastic and we dined as well as we ever had.

Staircase of Santa Maria del Monte. Each step with a different ceramic tile

Diane wants me to tell the story of how we got lost trying to drive out of Caltagirone. It involved driving around narrow streets in circles and meeting (and trying to pass) an ice cream truck. Twice. Ask me when we next meet...

Diane at the bottom of the steps of SMdeM. I drove down that road and made that left turn down the hill.
It wasn't easy!

A Weekend In Agrigento

CLICK HERE FOR MORE PHOTOS OF AGRIGENTO

Temple of Concordia, one of the best preserved sites
of the ancient world

Agrigento was far enough away (about a 3.5 hour trip) that we went for the weekend and spent two nights in a local B&B. The B&B was terrific and our host Dorio, was wonderful.

He drew us maps, made dinner reservations at local restaurants, including one high on a hill overlooking the Valley of the Temples, and served the greatest breakfast with all local ingredients mostly from his farm; cheeses, eggs, honey, olive oil, home baked cakes. It was great! And all for just the 4 of us.

Our view out the bedroom window

Agrigento is another gem in Sicily because it contains the vast, high, ruins of the ancient Greek city of Akragas. The ruins are called the Valley of the Temples and they contain well preserved temples, an extraordinary garden and a magnificent museum. The site sits high on a plateau overlooking the Mediterranean Sea and it's a beautiful place. Between the temples and the objects in the museum one looks back over 2500 years of history. It's quite an experience!

Temple of Juno. One can see fire damage from the Siege of Akgras by he Carthiginians in 406 BC

It goes without saying that Agrigento, sitting on the south coast of Sicily, was later conquered by Carthiginians, Romans, Normans, Spanish, and, most recently, by the allies in WW2. And it's a UNESCO Word Heritage Site.

Scala dei Turchi

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This is a beautiful beach near Agrigento noted for it's white cliffs. here are some photos:

WW2 fortifications

See you soon!